How's this for a little black magic, and there are TONS OF other possible color combos if the dark stuff isn't your thing.
The SBS sintered pads will do wonders for the initial braking bite.
Start removing the OEM front lines by loosening the mount located on the lower triple.
You'll find another mount on the left side of the front fender.
There's one more brake line mount on the right side of the front fender as well.
Before coming in contact with harmful brake fluid you should wear proper protection like these Black Lightning Nitrile gloves. otherwise your skin will start peeling off!
Start by removing the OEM banjo bolts at the calipers, make sure to drain the brake fluid into a proper container. Brake fluid is extremely corrosive and will eat through paint, so clean anything it comes in contact with. If you're replacing pads like we are, it's easiest to remove the calipers by unthreading the upper and lower mounting bolts.
Now remove the OEM banjo bolt and line from the master cylinder.
Before installing the Melvin lines, we always reuse any factory mounts for the cleanest possible install. Simply remove them from the factory lines and replace them on the new ones.
After these two hex-head slide pins are removed the pads drop out. Take note of the retaining clip orientation.
Slide the SBS sintered pads into place. Make sure the retaining clips are properly preloaded and reinstall the hex-head slide pins.
Before installing the lines, make sure you have crush washers on both ends of the banjo bolt as shown. Also note that the factory front line starts as a single unit at the master cylinder and splits into a pair at the fender. Melvin lines come as a pair from the master to the calipers.
Melvin lines are unique in that the banjo ends rotate, so getting the right mounting angle is a cinch.
Starting with the rear caliper, remove the front-most bolt on the OEM brake line.
Remove the center hex-head mounting bolt as well as the rear banjo and the OEM line comes off. Replace it with the Melvin unit in the reverse of removal.
Unthread the front pivot bolt as well as the slide pin and the factory pads can be removed.
Don't forget to move the anti moan inserts from the factory pads to the SBS units.
How's that for a polished look? Don't forget to fill the reservoirs with new brake fluid followed by properly bleeding the system. After that, get ready for serious bite!
Nothin' but real-world installs and hardcore tech here. Forget paying for service; this is about getting your hands dirty and spinnin' a wrench on your own ride. Whether you've got a brand new bike or a clapped-out crapper we're showing you how to make useful upgrades.
Save for high-buck bikes with top-shelf components, just about every streetbike can use a little help in the braking department. Our 2007 CBR600RR is no different, and even though the stock binders aren't bad, a component upgrade will significantly boost their bite and power.
While the timeless catchphrase, "there's more than one way to skin a cat," is ever so apt when it comes to brake upgrades, a simple swap to more aggressive pads and steel lines offers great performance gains on a realistic budget.
Most bikes come with rubber brake lines from the factory, and under hard braking the line pressure causes the rubber to expand which results in a spongy feeling at the lever. To combat the soft stoppers we swapped to stainless steel braided lines from Melvin. These hoses come in a variety of colors and even feature adjustable banjo bolts that spin to fit any routing path you should choose. By using stainless steel lines instead of rubber, the lines won't swell under hard braking, thus keeping the lever nice and firm.
The second upgrade is a set of SBS sintered pads. These grippers have an aggressive compound that not only increases bite, but dispels heat more efficiently. Stock pads tend to lose their bite after repeated stops because of the increased heat, but the SBS sintered pads have an operating range that extends much higher. And unlike the sintered pads of old that needed heat in them before working properly, these pads have ample grip even while cold. That's not to say they're 100 percent within the first 100 feet of a ride, but they come up to temp quickly.
The install was easy, as the lines and pads were a simple remove and replace affair. The pivoting banjo ends of the Melvin lines made tightening the bolts a cinch. Do verify that the banjo bolts are the same thread pitch as your stockers. If not, it can be an expensive mistake having to re-tap your OEM braking components if you force them into place.
While aftermarket rotors and expensive master cylinder upgrades are items to dream about, sometimes the basics can make just as much of a difference on the street.
Melvin Stainless Steel Brake Lines
$165 (front and rear)
SBS Sintered Brake Pads
Coming next month: Vortex rearsets