Nothin' but real-world installs and hardcore tech here. Forget paying for service; this is about getting your hands dirty and spinnin' a wrench on your own ride. Whether you've got a brand new bike or a clapped-out crapper we're showing you how to make useful upgrades.
Now that the CBR is braking better and pulling harder thanks to the HMF slip-on pipe and Melvin brake lines/SBS pads we thought it was a good time to give it added crash protection and some rider comfort.
Accidents can happen, and to reduce the risk of cracked cases and broken bits, a GB Racing crash protection kit was installed. This five-piece package comes with three case covers, two swingarm sliders/spools and a lower chain guard.
The sliders are made of a high-impact, nylon composite material for great impact and abrasion resistance. In other words, they'll hold their form in a tip over and withstand grinding from the pavement.
For rider adjustability and racebike bling, Vortex adjustable rearsets were an instant fix. These billet perches are made from aluminum and come in multiple colors. But beyond looking good, the rearsets also allow you to adjust your peg position from stock all the way up and back in small increments for a MotoGP-like stance.

The crash kit is like adding...

The crash kit is like adding a turtle shell to your bike-minus the turtle part.

How's that for some racebike...

How's that for some racebike bling? lots of adjustments allow for the perfect setup.
The installation of both the 'sets and the sliders was straightforward without any fitment issues, and the finished result was perfect. Including these final upgrades we bettered the CBR on all fronts without breaking the bank thanks to some key mods and a little elbow grease.
Next Month:
A 2004 Kawasaki ZX-10R goes under the knife.

1. The shifter side is a two-piece...

1. The shifter side is a two-piece design. Start by removing the hex-head bolts securing the rearset to the frame. be sure to Save the bolts since they're used to secure the Vortex units as well. In order to remove the shift linkage you must loosen the upper arm bolt and the hex-head bolt on the lower lever pivot as well.

2. Make sure to grease all...

2. Make sure to grease all moving parts on your rearsets. This will keep them functioning for years to come.

3. It's also a good idea to...

3. It's also a good idea to use Loctite on all bolts. Race rearsets can come loose, causing components to bend.

4. Now install the Vortex...

4. Now install the Vortex rearset and shift linkage.

5. Remove the shifter side...

5. Remove the shifter side rearset by ditching the two hex-head bolts securing the stock unit to the frame; like the other side you'll need to reuse the bolts with the Vortex units. Also note that you'll need to remove the brake-light switch from the stock 'sets.

6. With the stock stuff gone,...

6. With the stock stuff gone, install the Vortex unit. Don't forget to tighten the rear master cylinder to the Vortex part.

7. Since we wanted to retain...

7. Since we wanted to retain the brake-light function from the rearsets just like the factory setup, we added the Vortex pressure switch.

8. The Vortex brake-light...

8. The Vortex brake-light switch replaces the rear master cylinder banjo bolt and must be spliced into the factory wiring. No worries-the install is a breeze.

1. The rash is evidence that...

1. The rash is evidence that the owner already had a tip-over. Good thing the GBR unit will cover up the rash and prevent anything worse from happening in the future.

2. Remove the four lower bolts...

2. Remove the four lower bolts and replace them with the supplied hardware and the GBR cover.

3. The spools/swingarm sliders...

3. The spools/swingarm sliders work great and look good too.

4. The right side stock cover...

4. The right side stock cover looks to be in good condition, but we all know that can change in an instant. why chance it?

5. Here's a look at the right-side...

5. Here's a look at the right-side GB Racing covers and the Vortex rearset. Now that's a look that's straight out of the race paddock.
Readers with a keen eye will note that we didn't install the GB Racing lower chain guard. The guard requires drilling two small holes in the swingarm, and as it isn't our bike we didn't want to drill holes.